Tuesday 12 January 2010

5th Jan - Mountaineering

Went up to Coire nan Lochan, site of my first proper full-on ice-climb in 2002. Less of a walk-in than the previous day, we got up to the Coire in about 1h 30. Climbed SC Gully (150m, III***) - spectacular route with 4 pitches, cited in the guidebook as one of the Scottish Classic climbs.

Crazy-horse led the first pitch, a 20m steep series of exposed ice walls. I then led the 2nd pitch up another ice wall onto a flatter snow gully. I led the third pitch which included an airy traverse round a rocky rib onto a steep ice wall and then a long run-out snowy gully with little protection which was pretty exciting. Crazy-horse then led the top 30m pitch to the summit cornice, in style. We topped out as it was getting dark and then descended in the dark to the valley.

Great day-out.

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